Doherty Sale House

How to Plant Beans and Peas

Plants like beans and peas are relatively easy to grow and are great options if you’re beginning gardener or just accquired a new plot or had a new garden bed. There beans also have a symbiotic relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which means they imprve the nutrient content of the soil. Follow these directions for growing beans-then pick them off the vine and eat them, and you’ll see how delicious they are!

Choose a good place. Beans generally need full sun, and they need at least 6 hours of sun every day. They grow well in warm climates, such as southern United States. Some beans grown in conventioanl corn fields using Three Sisters method (where beanstalks are grown around corn stalks that have already taken root in the ground) are better adapted to places without sunlight, even in dappled sunlight or less than 6 hours a day grow in sunlight.

  • Make a sun map to determine which parts of your yard or patio are best for growing beans.

Choose bean varieties according to your taste and place. Each type of bean will have different light, space, growing methods, and harvesting requirements, so flavors will also be different. Some leguments (like carob) are eatern raw in their pods, while others have their shells peeled off and dried before cooking. There are two main types of beans:

  • If the bean pole grows tall, you must build a plant support cage. Not only do support look great, they also allow the beans to grow vertically.
  • Dwarf beans grow relatively compact and do not need trellis support. Because they don’t take up much bulk, they’re easier to plant in or around other plants.

DIY Tips:

*If you have too many ripe pods, wait until they are truly ripe (i.e. the stems start to dry out, or the pods split), pick and open them, then dry the seeds in a cool, dry place. Next year, keep planting those seeds!

*It should be noted that farmers water the peas with 70ml of water every two days.

*Consider companion planting to improve soil and crop health.

*A good plant is to go to a nearby nursery or seed store to get experience and advice from someone with expertise. Local nursery growers have a better understanding of the local climate and soil, which cannot be learned from gardening books, and they can help y ou recommend suitable planting times and varities.


  • If you see tiny bugs on your peas—green or brown (aphids), small white flies (bemisia tabaci), or white fuzz that look like they’re on the back of leaves (another type of whitefly)—at least Wash them away with water and soap. If it has spread to one branch, cut it off and throw it away, then wash the surrounding branches; if it has spread to an entire plant, pull up the whole plant and throw it away. Different plants have different weaknesses, so check gardening books for other diseases and pests that can affect peas and beans.
  • Most peas and beans are affected by powdery mildew and other pests. If you see white film or dust on some leaves, cut off the affected branch, even if it has peas or flowers, and throw it away. Do not compost or let it get close to any surrounding plants. Dealing with an infestation is easier if you catch it early, but if most of the plant is infested, pull it up and throw it away as a whole. Then take care of the plants near it. If the infestation is severe, don’t plant peas or tomatoes next year; otherwise they will be infested from the start. If you don’t deal with the infestation, the leaves and stems start to dry out and turn brown (much like when a plant dies from heat or old age), and the whole plant dies quickly (may spread mold to other nearby plants!).
  • In early infestation, 9 parts water and 1 part milk powder are diluted and sprayed on the bottom and top of the plants every one to two weeks. This will neutralize the infestation at an early stage and will prevent it from further infestation. Apple cider vinegar or a small amount of baking soda solution can also keep pests at bay. Take the chance to stop the infestation before it’s too late.
  • Do not plant the same crop in the same place for more than a year or two; rotate crops to prevent soil-borne diseases.

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